Climbing and Mountaineering Winterim 2010
Climbing and Mountain Winterim 2010
Though our meticulously-laid plans were thrown out the window again and again, we somehow we pulled it all together and created an incredible adventure!
Our group of nine students and two leaders met on Tuesday morning at Catlin and loaded into two mini-vans for four days of climbing and road-tripping. We drove to Smith Rock State park and hiked to Student Wall, where we did a safety de-brief and set up an area to teach climbing, belaying, moving over a fixed line, and rappelling. It was the first time any of us had basked in sunshine for weeks!
That night we drove to Skull Hollow campground--we had the entire place to ourselves. We went on a stealth (and my stealth I mean "playing techno as loud as possible in a minivan") mission to gather firewood and had quite the scorcher during dinner.
On Wednesday morning we drove back to Smith and headed off to the Dancer/Jete/Combination blocks area. Students and leaders led climbs and toproped a number of excellent lines (note: Double Trouble is AMAZING!!!). We ended our day a bit early to get to the trailhead of Mt. Washington before dark.
In driving to the trailhead, we found a viewpoint of Mt. Washington that showed that the peak would be impossible to climb. Like "Mountain of Death" impossible. We decided to try to another peak. Driving back East, we called friends and family and used iPhones to find a peak in climbable conditions. Peter suggested Mt. Thielson and the students made a decision to head South. We drove to Thielson and slept in the parking lot.
On Thursday we woke early and left the trailhead at 8am for our summit bid. Snow conditions were not good for XC travel. We gained the ridge below the massif and the students led up the southern slopes until 12:30 when we stopped for lunch (much of which had been forgotten!). The weather had become ideal for spring mountaineering and we did some “snow school” training on the sunny flanks. Though the summit pyramid looked snowy and daunting, we made our way upwards.
At 3:00 we arrived at the final pitch below the summit and scouted for a safe, clean line up the SE or SW ridge. Neither offered safe climbing, so we backed in the sun below the summit pinnacle. We boot-skied, glissaded, and plunge-stepped back to tree-line, putting our heads down for the long descent back to the car.
On Thursday night we found an incredible campsite up a creek off the Umpqua and enjoyed our last night out—all of the students slept under the stars!
Friday was a final breakfast and a long drive back to Portland, dotted with stops for Ultimate Frisbee, gas at the slowest pumps imaginable, and AMAZING milkshakes.
Ultimately this trip was about getting a diverse group of students together and empowering them to create the most incredible road trip possible.
Take a look at our journey by clicking any of the pictures below and watching a slideshow. Put on some music (no techno, please) and enjoy!